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12
Restoration Tips - Simple steps for
your project
Executing a complete
restoration of a classic car involves several major stages. Most of
these—paint and bodywork, major mechanical and the like—can be left
to the professionals, but with simple handtools and a weekend
afternoon, you can accomplish a lot on your own. The restoration
parts aftermarket can supply almost any part for most popular makes,
models and years of classic cars. Your best bet is to start with a
catalog of parts devoted to your particular car or truck. Most of
the items shown here pertain to 1964-72 GM A-bodies: GTOs, Chevelles,
442 Cutlasses and Buick GSs. We'll pass along some tips and products
that will make your car a detailed showpiece and save you a few
bucks in the process. Plus, you'll enjoy the satisfaction of
restoring it yourself.
Battery &
Cables
The engine compartment is a very important
area for any restored classic or muscle car. Many items must look
factory-new, particularly if you plan on entering your car in judged
competition. Every marque has a manufacturer or supplier of correct
vintage batteries for most applications.
Carburetors
Original vintage carburetors usually came from the factory with a
greenish-gold coating called dichromate for protection. After
rebuilding or years of service, most of this coating has been
removed. Aerosol spray paint is available that restores this patina.
After the carb is disassembled and painted, new gaskets are in
place, and the linkage is detailed out, the single or multiple carbs
are a knockout and ready for any show judge.
Emblems
Many chrome-plated exterior emblems have survived the years
unscathed with the exception of the painted areas. Clean off the old
paint, then use model paint and brush. Keep the paint wet by adding
it in drops and letting the paint flow through the area to avoid
brush marks. If your emblems are trashed, reproductions are usually
available from resto parts suppliers.
Lenses
After years of cleaning, clear or colored plastic lenses often
become dulled with scratches. Unless they are suffering from deep
scratches or cracks, these units can usually be saved with fine
metal polish. Some lenses will require more work than others, but
the results are usually well worth the effort.
Hoses &
Belts
While replacement heater and radiator hoses are available at most
auto parts stores, correct restorations require the original
manufacturer's logo or identification stripes stamped on the hoses.
Reproduction parts suppliers offer correct replacements for most
popular American-made classics. The cost difference between a
generic replacement and the factory-correct part is minimal.
Bolt
Renewal
Reusing the original hardware from your car is the best guarantee of
originality. Over the years, most bolts rust, get covered in grime,
or suffer a combination of both. To bring them back to life, remove
the bolts and clean them chemically. Then use a wire wheel to remove
remaining rust and crunk. Clear-coat spray paint will help preserve
the metal and make the bolt look like new. The process can be
tedious if you have a lot of bolts, but it's the little things that
make the big difference.
Wiring
Underhood wiring is subjected to extremes of heat, grease and grime.
All electrical wiring is color-coded from the factory. Use a solvent
such as lacquer thinner to clean off visible dirt. (Hand and
paint-protection provisions must be implemented when using lacquer
thinner.) While cleaning the wiring, inspect it for cracking or
other deterioration, and also clean the plastic connectors. If your
wiring harness has been butchered up, replace it from a supplier for
your vehicle type.
Hose
Clamps
In the '50s and '60s many manufacturers used tower-style or crimp
hose clamps for heater and radiator hoses. The crimp-type can always
be cleaned and reused, and the tower versions can often be salvaged
if they're removed carefully. If replacement is necessary, most of
the resto suppliers stock both styles. Usually two different sizes
were used on the heater hoses and the radiator hoses. Inquire what's
correct for your application or check the size on the tower clamp
itself—it's marked on the band.
Headlights
GM used two different styles of headlight bulbs in the '60s. These
bulbs can usually be found in junkyards or from used-parts
restoration suppliers. Make sure you check the bulb marking to make
sure it's correct for your car. In stiff competition, you can gain
points by having the correct headlight bulbs for your particular
year and model. Again, attention to detail is everything.
Master
Cylinder
Several companies supply rebuilt master cylinders and replated power
boosters for collector cars. Over-the-counter replacements are often
different styles from the original. Bare metal originals are
normally rusted and need cleaning and painting. While master
cylinders can be repainted to resemble the factory look, OE-appearance
boosters must be purchased from brake parts suppliers to get a fresh
gold-cadmium finish. A new booster really is a great finishing touch
in your engine compartment.
Ground
Straps
Engine bays are usually populated by several electrical ground
straps. These provide a good ground from engine to firewall, engine
to frame or anywhere a ground is needed. These straps are normally
copper and covered in grime. Clean them with chemicals and elbow
grease, being sure to use hand protection. The clean copper wire
looks super.
Products
Paint is a great starting point for any restoration. Many paint
suppliers carry correct-color high-heat engine paints, the correct
underhood semi-gloss black or almost any other finish treatment you
might need. Also, clear coat is the restorers' friend—it protects
the bare metal while allowing the original finish to show through.
The Eastwood Company sells a wide variety of restoration products
and tools.
Resource
The Eastwood Company, PO Box 296, Malvern, PA 19355-0296, (610)
640-1460,
www.eastwoodco.com |
