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Welcome to "tips for basic car maintenance". With some
hand tools, you can perform some basic maintenance to extend the
life of your second largest investment - your car! By keeping
your vehicle looking and running at its best, you will also
increase its value when it comes time to sell or trade it in.
Vehicles costing so much money these days, a little maintenance
can go a long way. Many owners often overlook maintenance on
items that may not seem important. Sometimes it isn't what you
know, but know what to do and where to take it to makes a world
of difference.
We have a tendency
to either do no maintenance or very little maintenance, because
of our busy schedule, until the vehicle breaks down. Things
that are very easy to do are often overlooked. Most of the
maintenance routines can be performed with very little
automotive repair knowledge and in as little as 1 to 2 minutes
long. Vehicles that is maintained on a regular basis will
increase power, reliability, mileage and possibly prevent a
major repair.
Tools required
to do your own maintenance are simply screwdrivers, pliers,
rags, spray grease, tire gauge, silicone lubricant and baking
soda. Some vehicles may require specialized tools to complete
but generally these are the tools you need.
Safety
precautions must be followed and exercised before performing any
maintenance to any vehicle. Refer to your owner's manual for
specific safety rules and guidance.
SUMMARY TIPS
According to recent studies, 5% of all motor vehicle fatalities
are clearly caused by automobile maintenance neglect. The
following simple preventive checks will greatly extend the life
of your vehicle, ensure safer operation and even benefit the
environment.
- Always
consult your owner’s manual, but a good rule of thumb is to
have the oil filter changed regularly, every 3,000 to 4,000
miles.
- Have all
fluids checked, including brake, power steering,
transmission/transaxle, windshield washer solvent and
antifreeze. These fluids play a large role in the safety and
performance of the vehicle.
- Check tire
inflation. Under-inflated tires can result in a loss of fuel
efficiency. This is the least expensive form of preventive and
safety maintenance. Tires should be checked once a month.
- Keep your
engine tuned. A fouled spark plug or plugged/restricted fuel
injector can reduce fuel efficiency as much as 30 percent.
- Have the
chassis lubricated frequently. This step extends the life of
the moving components of the vehicle's suspension system.
- Check
battery cables and posts for corrosion and clean them as
needed. The battery fluid should also be checked and filled if
it is low, except in the case of maintenance-free batteries.
- Have the
lighting system checked frequently, including headlights, turn
signals, and brake and tail lights.
- Check
windshield washer blades for cracks, tears and windshield
contact. Replace them approximately once a year or sooner if
streaking begins.
- Inspect
engine belts regularly. Worn belts will affect the engine
performance. Look for cracks and missing sections or segments.
- Have the air
filtration system checked frequently. The air filter should be
checked approximately every other oil change for clogging or
damage. This system ensures that the vehicle is performing at
its peak condition.
- Always
consult the vehicle owner's manual for individual service
schedules as manufacturer maintenance requirements vary
greatly.
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AIR FILTER
Air filter
replacement, next to oil change, is the most important basic
maintenance for your engine. A dirty air filter has a direct
effect on how long your motor will last. Its functions include
removing dust and dirt particles and preventing other foreign
objects, such as leafs or bugs, from getting into your engine.
It will also, in most cases, prevent a fire from occurring after
a backfire from the engine. If your vehicle is driven in a very
dusty conditions, check weekly. Under normal conditons, it can
be done every 3 months or so. It will only take about 2 to 5
minutes of your time.
Tools:
standard/phillips screwdriver or general purpose pliers. Some
cars may require different tools.
- Open the
hood and locate the housing that holds the air filter element.
Most cars have either clips or screws holding the housing
together. Remove and inspect the filter.
- Check both
sides of the element. Check the grooves of the filter for dirt
and grime. Drop the filter on the floor. If you can see dirt
on the floor, it's time to replace the filter.
- Reverse the
removal process and check that it is installed properly. Make
sure there are no gaps around the edge of the housing and that
it is secured tightly.
- Start the
engine to ensure that it is working properly.
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APPEARANCE
How you feel
about your car dictates how you treat it. A vehicle that is clean
inside and out is usually not driven as hard and is mechanically
in much better shape.
Your car
accumulates and is exposed to numerous particles that will hurt
its paint. Particles such as pollutant, mud, salt, sand, bugs,
tars, rain, snow, sun, etc. are extremely harmful to the paint.
Having your vehicle detailed by a professional every 6 months
will guarantee longevity to its paint while maintaining its
original clear coat finish, the beauty behind a good shine. Repainting a vehicle range anywhere between $5,000 to $10,000.
For such a small investment to have your car detailed by a
it is more than worth it.
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BATTERY
Most servicing,
testing or maintenance on a battery is best left to the
professionals.However, cleaning it is one thing
you can do on your own. It will increase the longevity and
cranking power of your battery. If a battery is left to
accumulate dirt and grime, it will start to discharge across the
terminals. This result in less cranking power. You'll need all
the power you can get when starting your vehicle in a cold or
snowy morning, or perhaps, your vehicle may have been left
inactive over a long period of time. Cleaning should be done
twice a year. It will only take approximately 5 to 10 minutes.
Tools: baking
soda, rag and water hose.
- Remove any
clip-on covers that may be hiding access to the battery.
Usually no tools are required to do this task.
- Now,
sprinkle some baking soda all over the battery surface. Let it
sit for 5 minutes. This will neutralize the acid on the
battery. If you acciddentally splash baking soda on to the
paint, simply rinse it with water to prevent any damage. Do
not touch any of the terminals to the body of the car
(ground). A short may occur. Do not touch two terminals at the
same time. You may get shock. Baking soda is effective on
either a side post or a top post battery. Remember not to
allow any dirt or grime from the battery (may contain battery
acid) on to your body or clothings.
- Finally,
rinse off using a water hose. Be careful not to spash mixture
everywhere. Using an old rag, wipe it dry starting with the
top. The voltmeter will no long show voltage potential until a
period of driving.
Remember: It is
well known that frequent and/or repetitive charge/discharge
cycles produce an apparent inability in the battery to provide
more than a portion of its normal capacity beyond a certain
discharge level. This means if you do not use-up the full charge
on a battery before you recharge it, you can build- up a memory
wall at that point. So in future use of that battery, it will
fail at that wall.
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BELTS
Without ample
warning, a belt may suddenly break and disable your vehicle
completely. Warning signs can include squealing after starting
or under load. There are two main types of belts today. A series
of "V" groove belts and a single piece "SERPENTINE" belt that
drives all the items under the hood. Belts must be checked
regularly.
If a serpentine
belt breaks, you have no engine coolant pump, air conditioner
compressor operation, power steering or alternator power. This
will disable your vehicle immediately. Check your belts once
every three months. It will only take no more than 1 to 2
minutes.
Should your
vehicle's belt breaks or about to break, do not attempt to
replace it yourself. Some vehicle require special tools to do
the task.
- SERPENTINE
BELT:
- There is
only one belt to check. It is wider than a normal V belt, and
one side is smooth while the other is ribbed.
- Inspect the
ribbed side for cracks in each rib. There must be no more than
10 cracks in any rib over 3 inches. Any more, the bel must be
replaced. Other reasons for replacement are nicks and cuts.
Serpentine belts should be replaced every 2 years or 30,000
miles.
- Tension of
the belt on most vehicles is automatically maintained by a
spring loaded tensioner.
- Check the
belt in several places to ensure that you have an accurate
idea of its condition.
V GROOVE:
- Check the
belts (there are more than one) for tension: each belt has its
own tightening method.
- Grasp the
belt in between the pulleys and feel the amount of free play
or movement. Most vehicles should not have more than half inch
(1.66 cm) of play or deflection between the pulleys. If it is
more than half inch, then the belt may have to be tightened by
a mechanic or someone who is qualified to perform the task. V
groove belts generally last approximately 3 to 4 years or
40,000 to 50,000 miles.
- Remember:
most auto warranties do not cover belts. They are considered a
maintenance item.
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BRAKE FLUID
Brake fluid
should be flushed once every two years. Brake fluid has the
ability to absorb moisture to prevent the malfunction of the
brake system. At 3% moisture content, the boiling point of your
brake fluid is reduced by 50%. It is very important to do this
service. Brake Fluid changes are easy when using a
turkey-blaster syringe. This should not be done by yourself.
With ABS brakes, you can seriously injure yourself.
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BRAKES
Don't you wish
your brakes would last forever? Well, there is a way to make
them last much longer. The secret is in what you do AFTER
you've stopped. Nothing is harder on your brakes than heat and
pressure. It is almost like heat treating the pads, shoes and
metal. It will make them harder and wear out much faster. If
you release the pressure on your brake pedal after you've
stopped, you will reduce this dangerous combinations of high
heat and pressure. Practice doing it for a month. It will
become part of your driving style.
Understanding
Your Brakes
To help prevent
brake problems or failures, the following regular inspections
and maintenance should be performed on your brake system.
- Check the
fluid levels.
- Check the
line for rust or punctures. You may be able to do this, but
consult a qualified technician if necessary.
- Check the
brake hoses for brittleness or cracking. This check should be
done by a qualified technician.
- Check the
brake linings and pads for wear, brake fluid or grease. This
check should be done by a qualified technician.
- Check the
wheel bearings and grease seals. This check should be done by
a technician.
- Adjust the
parking brake as required. This adjustment should be done by a
qualified technician.
- Some signals
that may indicate a problem with your brake system are:
- Squeals --
caused by excessive heating of brake pads or linings.
- Rubbing --
caused by the metal brake rotor rubbing against the metal
component of the brake pad. This sound means that the brake
pad is completely worn away.
- A soft brake
pedal indicating that there may be a brake fluid leak or air
in the lines.
- Brake pull
indicating worn linings, stuck pistons in the calipers or
wheel cylinders, or saturated linings (caused by grease or
brake fluid).
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CLUTCH
It transfers
the torque from the engine to the transmission. Without it, it
would be impossible to move. How do you make it last longer?
When the car is stationary, place the shifter into neutral and
take your foot OFF the pedal. This will reduce the wear to the
clutch and throw-out bearing. You should also use the lowest
amount of engine RPM and the shortest time possible when you
start off. That's basically all it takes.
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COLD MORNING
Starting a
motor on a cold Winter morning is probably one of the worst
punishments you can inflict on an engine. The moving parts are
devoid of oil and the oil may be very thick due to the cold. It
may take a few seconds AFTER the motor is started to have any
oil pressure. However, experts will agree that leaving the motor
running and letting it fast idle for 5 to 10 minutes is not good
at all. The best thing to do is start your car, let it idle for
30 seconds and go. Drive slowly until the engine is up to
temperature. This is the best way to make your car last.
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COOLANT TIPS
Your
coolant should be flush once every two years. It should not be
done at home unless you are familiar with the proper procedures.
Air bubbles or air pocket trapped in the engine will cause
severe damage. Most areas have laws on recycling the
Anti-Freeze. It is illegal to discharge it to
storm drains or sewer drains.
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FLAT TIRES
You should
always carry in your vehicle a flat fixer or tire sealant and a
spare tire in working condition. Tire sealant is for sealing any
small leaks or puncture. If you have a flat tire, all you have
to do is add the sealant to the tire. It will seal and inflate
the tire at the same time. It will also work on rim leaks.
NEVER ADD AIR to a tire with the sealant added to it. The
gas they use is flammable. Adding air to something that is
flammable may make it EXPLOSIVE. Always have your tire
repaired by the professionals as soon as possible. Be sure to
warn the technician that you've used gas to inflate the tire. He
should then vent it outdoor.
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FUEL ADDITIVES
Most cars today
are fuel injected. It holds such a cloud of mystery over us
that we tend to do nothing with it until it breaks down. Well,
there is something you can do. Fuel additives are designed to
prevent injectors from clogging.
Fuel additives
should be used once a month during the cold season and once or
twice during the summer. If you sense that your vehicle has
fuel injection problem, consult with the professionals
immediately.
To add fuel
additives, simply add fuel injection cleaner into you gas tank
and drive. Adding fuel injection cleaner immediately before
fuel allows it to mix evenly throughout the tank.
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LUBRICATE HINGES
Very few oil
change centers lubricate hinges anymore. It is up to you to do
the job. If not done regularly, the doors may start to creak,
become hard to open, and hinges will wear causing the doors to
sag. When the door starts to hit the door post, it will have to
be slammed to close properly. Usually, the driver's door is the
first to go. A little attention in this area has a great pay
back. It only has to be lubricated once every 3 months and will
only take about 2 to 3 minutes.
- First, open
the door all the way.
- Using WD40,
spay all of the moving pivot points on the upper and lower
door hinges. It is OK to overdo the spaying. The excess grease
will not hurt. Be sure not to miss spraying the roller that
holds the door in position. Work the door back and forth to
help the grease penetrate to the moving parts. Wipe any excess
grease from any painted surfaces. It may stain the paint if
left on it. If the hinges are really dry and sticky, use a
penetrating oil first. Work it in before using the spray
grease to coat the area.
- Repeat on
all other doors.
- Trunk lids
hinges can also be done if accessible. Do not overdo it in the
trunk area.
- Under the
hood, you can spray the hinges and the hood lock assembly.
Also spray any of the rubber stops under the hood. This may
eliminate squeaks.
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UNDER HOOD CHECKS
Under hood
checks can be performed by anyone. It will allow you the
opportunity to become familiar with your vehicle and spot any
thing that is not normal. Regular checking will prevent minor
problems from becoming major headaches. It should be done at
least once a month. If you need further assistance, do not
hesitate to contact the professional.
- First open
your hood. The engine must be off.
- Check the
engine oil by pulling out the dipstick, wiping it off and
putting it back in all the way. Pull it out again. Look at
both sides of the dipstick. The lowest reading on the stick is
the correct reading. It must fall between the "full" and "add"
marks and is usually one litre or one quart from the two.
- Make sure
that the dipstick is replaced when you are done. It may affect
the running of your engine due to a vacuum leak.
- Power
steering fluid can be checked and also has a dipstick. Do not
overfill. Most vehicles now use a special fluid for power
steering and do not use transmission fluid anymore.
- Check the
level of your coolant in the overflow bottle. It usually has a
"full" or "add" mark but may be marked as "cold" and "hot".
The coolant should be at least at the cold mark when the
vehicle has not yet been started. It should be around the hot
mark after the vehicle has been running.
- Do not add
coolant to a hot cooling system! In most vehicles, you add
coolant to the overflow bottle when cold.
- Next, check
the brake fluid level. Almost all vehicles today have a clear
or transparent reservoir. This allows you to check the brake
fluid without opening the system.
- For cars
with ABS (anti-lock brake system), it may also have a two
levels mark on the reservoir. Make sure the level is between
at one or the other. One level is with the ABS system charged
and ready to operate (the lower mark), and the other (the
higher mark) is to indicate the fluid level with the system
completely discharged (the pedal pumped slowly with the key
off, at least 30-40 times).
- It is also
marked with the proper brake fluid type of your car. DOT3,
DOT4 or DOT5. If it is marked DOT3, you may also use DOT4. If
it is marked DOT4, you can only use DOT4. In extreme
emergency, you may use DOT3 but the whole system must be
flushed out as soon as possible. DOT5 cannot be mixed under
any circumstances with DOT3 or DOT4.
- If you have
an automatic transmission, check the fluid level. Most cars
require that the engine be running and the shifter firmly
placed in park and level. Remove the dipstick and wipe clean,
re-insert and read level on both sides. The lowest reading is
the correct reading.
- Check the
transmission level after the car has been driven for a while
because the volume of fluid in the transmission is about 10-16
liters or quarts. This will cause a great amount of expansion
of the fluid from cold to hot and may cause you to overfill
it. If overfilled, it could cause a fire by allowing the fluid
to foam and exit the dipstick onto the hot engine area and
burn. Most vehicles have information written on what type of
fluid to add if needed.
- A
check of your
belts,
air filter
and
washers could also be done at
this time.
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LIGHTS
Lights are
extremely important. Not only are they important for your
safety, they are important because it is the law. You
should inspect your headlights, parking lights and signal/brake
lights every 1 to 2 weeks. With a help, it should take no more
than 2 minutes.
Tools: phillip,
standard or torqx screwdrivers.
- The best way
to check the lights is to turn on the parking lights and the
four-way flashers (hazard light) and walk around the vehicle
to see that they are all working.
- Next, turn
on the headlights and, using a wall as a reflector, flash the
high beams.
- Now, have
someone depress the brake pedal while you stand at the rear of
the vehicle.
- If a bulb is
blown, remove the lens assembly or remove the bulb from the
back of the lens and replace it. Reinstall the lens and test
the light again.
- There are
two main types of headlights: a sealed beam light and a small
halogen bulb.
- With a
Sealed Beam light, use the following method for replacement:
(1) Remove some trim from around the light. (2) Remove
retaining righ (usually 4 screws) that holds the light in
place. Pull the light out slightly and unplug the light. Do
not throw it away yet. It may not be the problem. (3) Plug in
the new light and test before securing it back in. (4) Once
you are sure that it works, attach the retaining ring and any
other trim and re-test the light.
- The
following apply if you have a Halogen type light: (1) Find
access to the back of the bulb area. (2) Do not remove the
light housing. The bulb comes out from the rear on most
vehicles. (3) Most have a retaining righ or collar holding the
bulb in place. Turning the collar counter-clockwise will
remove the collar. (4) Now, pull the bulb straight back and
unplug it from the wiring harness. Plug the new bulb into the
harness, being careful NOT to touch the bulb glass (it may be
HOT and it also shortens the life of the bulb). (5) Replace
the collar and test the light.
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OIL ADDITIVES
Oil additives
should never be added to a new engine. The slippery compounds
that make up these oils, prevent the wear-in of the parts
together. You may have an increase in oil consumption because
the piston rings cannot seat or seal properly with the piston
cylinder. I would wait at least one year or 12,000 miles before
using such product on your engine. On the contrary, if you
have an older vehicle, oil additives are great for your
vehicle. It helps maintaining the engine on a cold morning
startup.
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OIL CHANGES
Bare in mind
that oil is much cheaper than metal. It's that simple. Change
your oil often and you will reduce engine wear. Change your oil
four times a year: Winter, Spring, Summer and Fall. It is
strongly recommended that you change your oil every 3,000 to
5,000 miles. Change it even if you hardly drive your car.
The
contaminants that build up and moisture that does not get burned
off from the oil due to short trips will attack the metal parts
of your engine. Oil is definitely cheaper than metal.
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PARKING BRAKES
It is very
important that you get into the habit of using your parking
brake every time you park your car, even if you have an
automatic transmission. It will help maintain the adjustment on
your rear brakes as well. If you have four wheel disc brakes, it
is even more important. How many times have your front brakes
been worn out but the rear were as good as new? If you use your
parking brake regularly, the rear brakes will stay in adjustment
and wear evenly with the front. They will last longer overall
and will not overburden the front brakes. They will not seize as
easily if used all the time.
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SYNTHETIC OILS
These oils are
typically much higher in price and are usually rated 15W40.
These oils are a little bit better at flowing at low
temperature. They do last longer and don't break down as easily
as regular oils. The downside is, because the oil lasts longer,
it doesn't get changed as often as it should. All you have to
do with synthetic oil is change the oil filter and top up the
oil in between full oil changes. The other disadvantage is that
it is able to squeeze through much smaller openings. This is
what is known as an oil leak.
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TIRE PRESSURE
Many motorist
tend to neglect their tires, especially when it comes to
maintaining the correct air pressure. Under or over inflation
pressure in the long run can lead to alignment problem.
Inaccurate pressure will also cause your tires to wear out much
faster. Furthermore, it can cause blow-out, skidding and other
handling problems. This is one case where an ounce of prevention
will save a whole lot down the road. Tire pressure should be
checked at least once a month with a quality tire gauge. If you
need further assistance, do not hesitate to contact the
professional.
Tools: Tire
pressure gauge
- Always use a
quality tire pressure gauge.
- Check the
size of the tires to see if it matches the size on the sticker
on the driver's side door. If it does, you can use the
information on the side door to set the pressure.
- All tires
have a Maximum Inflation printed onto the sidewall of the
tire. Never exceed this pressure.
- Check all
four tires. If you find pressures that are too high, slowly
release a small amount at a time until you have the correct
pressure. If the pressure is too low, it is important to get
to the garage as soon as possible (unless the tire is flat, in
which case you should not drive the car as you could damage
the sidewalls). Never over-inflate a tire because it looks low
on air. Front tires often look low due to the fact that most
cars now are front wheel drive. Use a gauge to confirm
inflation. If it is OK, leave it alone.
- Tires are
best checked when they are cold. Within a few miles of
driving.
- After
filling the air, check the tire pressure again. Sometimes the
front pressure is not the same as the rear.
- Check the
condition of the sidewalls for deep nicks or cuts. Also look
for bulging of the sidewall or ballooning, and immediately
replace any tire with such problems.
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WASHER FLUID
Washer fluid
help remove bugs, winter salt, mud, dirt, etc. Check the fluid
level once every 2 weeks.
- Open the
hood and visually check the level in the washer fluid
container.
- Do not add
fluid to the coolant container by mistake. Make sure you are
filling the correct bottle.
- Do not use
water in the summer. Washer pumps need lubrication for the
impeller. The pump life will be severely shortened.
Furthermore, water will not remove bugs from the windshield.
Buy quality washer fluid from the dealer that sells your type
of vehicle. It will be less likely to stain or damage your
paint.
- If your
vehicle is in a cold environment, make sure that your washer
fluid have the proper freezing protection to prevent a frozen
windshield.
- If you have
a rear wiper, you may also have a container located in the
rear of the vehicle or an extra one under the hood.
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WINDSHIELDS
Any chips or
"bulls-eyes" should be repaired immediately. If not, most
windshield will develop cracks and will lead to having the
entire windshield replaced. Some insurance company will pay the
deductible to have your glass repaired. It is basically cheaper
for them to absorb a $40 repair bill than to pay a $500
windshield replacement bill. You may want to contact your
insurance company to verify that they will pay the deductible.
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WINTERIZE
In regions with
harsh Winters, we need to prepare the car for the extreme cold
and bad driving conditions. This "winterizing" needs to be done
prior to the Winter or cold weather and maintained throughout
the season.
- One of the
most important items is to have a new set of winter wiper
blades installed. Make sure they are the same length as your
existing blades.
- Using the
new ones as a guide, you should be able to see the retaining
clip used to hold the blade onto the wiper arm. Release the
clip with a small screwdriver, and pull off the old wiper
blade. Installation is a matter of just snapping the new blade
into place.
- Test to make
sure they are securely fastened.
- Make sure
your washer fluid is OK for cold weather and will not freeze.
If in doubt, drain and replace the old fluid.
- Have your
oil changed and the coolant strength checked by the
professionals.
-
Lubricate your
hinges
and doors.
- Use a lock
lubricant on all your locks to ensure they will operate in the
cold weather.
-
Perform a
major cleaning.
- Install snow
or all season tires BEFORE the bad weather hits.
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