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INSPECTIONS
Questions for
seller: Either during or after your spot checks and road tests, you
should ask the following questions to the seller. Whether or not
the seller is truthful in his or her answer, it will definitely
raise the level of seller's responsibility in a sale.
- Has the vehicle
been in an accident before?
- Has it been
repaired? If yes, why?
- Are you the
original owner?
- Any major
repairs in the past?
- Are there
receipts for maintenance and repairs?
- Has the vehicle
towed a trailer in the past?
- Was the vehicle
used for business or personal?
- Has the vehicle
undergone safety check?
- Has the
speedometer been replaced?
- Why are you
selling this vehicle?
ODOMETER -- The
first thing to look at is the odometer. You want to know the actual
mileage. Should the speedometer need replacement, it could cost
approximately $100 to $300.
- If the
speedometer has gone over 100,000 miles, either the first digit
will show it so or the first digit could show "0". In this case,
it is usually blue in color.
- Check to see if
the numbers are even and level. If not, it may have been tempered
with.
- Check the rubber
covers on the pedals. The more the wear, the higher the mileage.
The same goes to carpet.
- Open and close
both the front doors. If the driver side door does not close as
well as the passenger side door, it could mean a lot of mileage.
BODY PAINT -- Check
the body to see if sections have been repainted. Look at the
different panels and see if it has been painted. Look for overspray
and any indication of color differences. Repainted sections could
mean that the vehicle has been involved in an accident or some sort
of repairs.
- Stand back from
the car and compare section coloring. A repainted section may be a
different color shade.
- Look inside the
door frames and trunk lid. Sometimes you may see overspray on
latches, etc.
- Never look at a
car at night. Good lighting at night doesn't show as well as
sunlight.
BODY BUMPS -- Check
the body for bumps, ripples, grind marks and wavy panels. These
things are good indications of a bodywork.
- Get the vehicle
out in the sunlight.
- Get down on your
knees to look down the side of the car at mid level. Look at the
spot where the glare from the sun hits the car. As you move your
head to the side, the glare spot will move away from you and down
the side of the vehicle.
- Do this from all
four corners of the vehicle.
- Take your time
and check every inch of the vehicle. Sometimes sunglasses will
help you get a clearer view.
PANEL FIT -- Check
all the doors, the hood, the trunk to see if they fit properly.
This, too, could mean that the vehicle has been involved in an
accident. Cost to repair could be from $20 for an adjustment to
$1,000 for a replacement or frame straightening.
- Look at the gap
between the door and the fender at both the front and the rear.
The gap should be even all the way, top to bottom.
- Check for uneven
gaps at the top of the door, between the door and the roof.
- Look at the hood
and the trunk lids. The gap around all edges should be even.
- When you close
the doors, trunk, and hood, check to see if they shift to the side
or up and down. When they latch, that may show wear or
misalignment.
WATER LEAKS -- A
vehicle that has been leaking for a long period of time will likely
be rusted in areas you can and can't see. Repair cost could be very
high.
- Check floor mats
for dampness or water stains.
- Check carpet and
mats for rotting. This could be a sign for water leaks.
- Lift up the mat
in the trunk. Look for rotting and check for rust.
- Lift up the
spare tire and check the area for water and rust.
- Use your nose to
see if there are musty smell in the car and in the trunk.
FRAME -- Look
closely at the frame members. Check for bends and kinks. This
indicate that the vehicle either has hit something hard or been
driven in a ditch at high speed.
NOTE: For this
test, you will need a flashlight and an old blanket to lay on the
ground if you plan to look under the car. Never go under a car
unless a jack or hoist is totally secure. You might want to leave
this check to a professional mechanic.
- Use the
flashlight and follow the frame the full length of the vehicle.
- Do this one side
at a time. You may have to look at the opposite side of the
vehicle to get a good view.
- Look for any
strong angels.
- If you see
something you think is a bend, have a mechanic look at it. The
manufacturer puts straight angles in frames sometimes to
accommodate for other parts.
HEATING AND WELDING
-- Look for spots that have been heated and pounded back into shape
or welded. These spots should be easy to spot because they look
different from the areas surrounding them.
NOTE: For this
test, you will need a flashlight and an old blanket to lay on the
ground if you plan to look under the car. Never go under a car
unless a jack or hoist is totally secure. You might want to leave
this check to a professional mechanic.
- Use the
flashlight, check the floor pan and any parts of body panels you
can see.
- Check the frame
again.
- Look at control
arms and any lower suspension.
- Don't worry too
much about the suspension parts. This will be inspected when the
safety check is done.
EXHAUST SYSTEM --
The exhaust system must be sound to pass the safety. Repair cost can
run from $20 for a minor repair to $300 for a replacement.
NOTE: For this
test, you will need a flashlight and an old blanket to lay on the
ground if you plan to look under the car. Never go under a car
unless a jack or hoist is totally secure. You might want to leave
this check to a professional mechanic.
- Check muffler by
looking for holes and damages.
- Check all the
pipes. Look for holes, damage or rust. If they are badly rusted,
they may not last long.
- Check all the
clamps and exhaust hangers. Make sure they are not broken or
damaged.
- Make sure the
exhaust heat shield are attached.
- Most muffler
have a small hole at the rear for the moisture to leak out. This
is okay.
- A good way to
check for exhaust leaks is to have someone block the tailpipe for
a few seconds while you listen for leaks.
SPRINGS -- Sagging
or broken springs could make the car difficult to drive as well as
further damage. Cost for repair range from $200 to $500.
NOTE: For this
test, you will need a flashlight and an old blanket to lay on the
ground if you plan to look under the car. Never go under a car
unless a jack or hoist is totally secure. You might want to leave
this check to a professional mechanic.
- Usually inspect
all four springs. They may be coil or gas.
- Make sure the
vehicle is on a flat surface. Measure from the ground to the
center of the wheel well. The measurements of the front right and
left should not be more than 3/4 inch difference.
- Do the same at
the rear.
- A coil spring
may be broken at the bottom seat. Check closely to be sure.
SHOCKS & STRUTS --
Damaged or badly worn shocks and struts can cause handling problems.
Replacement can cost anywhere between $100 to $600.
NOTE: For this
test, you will need a flashlight and an old blanket to lay on the
ground if you plan to look under the car. Never go under a car
unless a jack or hoist is totally secure. You might want to leave
this check to a professional mechanic.
- Use the
flashlight to look at the shocks or struts.
- Look for oil
leaks. A small amount is okay, but any excessive oil wetness on
the shocks/struts, it should be replaced
- Inspect the
mounting rubber. Look for cracks or missing pieces.
- Look for broken
mounts or missing bolts.
- Check for damage
to housing or mounts.
- To check if
shocks or struts need replacement, bounce each corner of the
vehicle. The vehicle should bounce three times. If the vehicle
bounce more than three times, the shock or strut may be weak and,
therefore, will need replacement soon.
OIL AND
TRANSMISSION PAN -- When looking under the vehicle, look at the oil
pan. If the vehicle is an automatic transmission, look for leaks at
the transmission pan. Excessive leaks will drain oil. The engine
will seize. If there are leaks, cost could range anywhere from $60
to $400.
NOTE: For this
test, you will need a flashlight and an old blanket to lay on the
ground if you plan to look under the car. Never go under a car
unless a jack or hoist is totally secure. You might want to leave
this check to a professional mechanic.
- If a leak is
present, have a licensed mechanic pinpoint the specific problems.
- Look on the
ground directly underneath the vehicle, you may see patches of
fluid if it leaks.
- Fluid is
colored: oil is black or amber; transmission oil is pink;
anti-freeze is green.
DRIVE SHAFT --
Inspect drive shaft and joints. If they break, the vehicle will not
move. Cost will range anywhere from $75 to $450.
NOTE: For this
test, you will need a flashlight and an old blanket to lay on the
ground if you plan to look under the car. Never go under a car
unless a jack or hoist is totally secure. You might want to leave
this check to a professional mechanic.
- On a rear wheel
drive car, check the drive shaft for damaged.
- Attempt to move
the shaft up and down near the universal joint, there should be no
movement.
- Repeat the same
steps on the other end.
- On a front wheel
drive car, look at the rubber boots on either end of the joints.
If they are torn, water may be able to get in. Manufacturers say
that after eight hours of driving with contamination in the boot,
the joint is no longer good.
- If you turn the
wheel all the way one direction, you will be able to see the
Constant Velocity joint boot.
From this section
on, we will be dealing with road test. A test drive may help you
find problems that did not show up previously. You may want to
drive on roads with as many different conditions as possible -
bumps, hills, curves. Some of the checks can be done in a small
parking lot.
ENGINE -- The very
first thing to do for the road test is to start the engine.
- The engine
should start right away.
- The engine
should run smoothly.
- If the engine
stall, there is a problem. It possibly needs a tune-up which can
cost anywhere from $50 to $150. If it stalls more than once, there
is a bigger problem.
- The best
information you can get about the engine is when the engine is
cold before you start it for the road test.
EXHAUST LEAKS --
With the engine running, check the exhaust at the rear. It may
indicate engine problems which can cost anywhere between $1500 to
$3000.
- Look for water
dripping from the tailpipe. A little drip at the beginning stage
of the engine start-up is normal, but it should decrease as the
engine gets warmer.
- Look for smoke.
It's normal when the engine is cold, but it should stop when the
engine is warmer (note: during the Winter or cold temperature, it
is normal for a little smoke to always be there). If the smoke has
a bluish tinge, there may be an internal engine problem causing
the vehicle to burn oil. After the engine is warm, shut it off for
five to ten minutes and restart it again. Upon restart, see if
there is a bluish smoke comes out of the tailpipe. If so, the
valve seals may be leaking.
- If you see black
smoke, there is a fuel system problem.
- If the smoke is
white and kind of sweet smelling, it is anti-freeze.
- There will
always be some moisture in the exhaust, but it should burn off
within 2 to 5 minutes.
- NOTE: when
checking for smoke from the tailpipe, stand back to see the color
of the smoke.
FRAME AND WHEELS --
Have someone drive the vehicle away from you in a straight line.
Look to see if the vehicle's wheels are following the same tracks.
If not, there may be a bent frame. You may want to get an estimate
from a frame shop.
- Look down one
side and check the alignment of the body compared to the wheels.
Check both sides of the vehicle.
- If you are not
sure how to check this, get a four-wheel alignment test.
CLUTCH -- If the
clutch is worn or slipping, it may need a replacement. Cost range
anywhere between $40 to $100.
NOTE: This test
only applies to standard transmission vehicle only.
- Push the pedal
in and shift into first gear or reverse. Slowly release the pedal.
If the clutch is in good condition or well adjusted, it will begin
to engage about 2-3" away from the floor.
- Drive the
vehicle slowly, shift into second gear early and accelerate
heavily for a short time. If the engine races but the vehicle does
not accelerate, the clutch is slipping.
- If you feel
confident driving standard, try popping the clutch. If the engine
races but the vehicle does not accelerate, the clutch is slipping.
- NOTE: do this
test in a parking lot or a street with no traffic or pedestrians.
NOISES -- Listen
for noises of all types while driving. Standard transmission
vehicles should be fairly quiet. Repair cost is $500 to $2000.
NOTE: This test
only applies to standard transmission vehicle only.
- With engine
running, transmission in neutral, and foot of the clutch, listen
for noises. If there is noise, it may be input shaft bearing.
- While driving,
shift up and down through all gears. Listen carefully for noise.
Any noise such as whining, grinding, or "clunking" may mean a
serious problem.
- NOTE: most
standard transmission will have a whining noise when driving in
reverse. This is normal.
SHIFTING -- Check
for noise and proper shifting. Automatic transmission should be very
quiet. Cost for repair range from $3,000 to $4,000 depending on
makes and models and the extent of damage.
NOTE: This test
only applies to automatic transmission vehicle only.
- Start up the
vehicle and let it warm up. Be sure to not let it fast idle. Shift
to D (Drive) - be sure vehicle is on a flat surface. With your
foot off the brake and acceleration pedals, the vehicle should
move ahead slowly. If not, the transmission may be worn, low on
fluid or the engine idle may be low.
- Accelerate
moderately, pay attention to the shifting. It should be smooth and
consistent. Every shift should occur at about the same engine
RPM). Go to highway speeds.
- Pull out the
dipstick, the fluid should be pink and there should not be any
burn smell.
DIFFERENTIAL --
Check the differential for any obvious signs of wear. Repair cost
anywhere between $300 to $600.
NOTE: This test
only applies to automatic transmission vehicle only.
- Drive at highway
speeds, accelerate hard for 2 to 3 seconds and let your foot off
the gas paddle and coast. Listen for high pitched whining noise.
If there is noise, there may be wear or damage to differential.
- With the vehicle
at a complete stop, shift from first gear to reverse and listen
for clunk. Noises like this indicate that there are too much play
at the differential gears.
WHEEL BEARING --
Listen for growling noises while driving. The vehicle could have a
bad wheel bearing. Repair cost could range from $50 to $200.
- Find a road with
no traffic, accelerate the vehicle to mid speed and listen for
growling noises.
- Turn the wheel
to the left. If the noise gets louder, the bad bearing is on the
right side. Turn to the right and check the other side. The reason
for this is that when you turn the wheel, the vehicle weight shift
the opposite way.
- NOTE: This
method will works most of the time, but allow the mechanic to help
you decide where the problem is. The tires can make similar sound,
so listen very carefully.
BRAKES -- Perform
some braking tests. This is a quick to check the brakes. Repair cost
range from $30 to $700.
- Drive on a quiet
road and slowly apply the brakes. Sense if the vehicle pulls to
one side. If it does, it could mean wear, sticking parts or fluid
leaks. Make sure it is not due to unbalance tire pressure.
- When you come to
a stop, apply pressure to the pedal and hold. If the brake pedal
continues to go down, there may be a leak or air in the brake
system. The pedal should stay approximately 1 1/2" away from the
floor.
- If the brake
pulsate (surging ahead and slowing down alternatively) when coming
to a stop, this indicates the drums and/or rotors may be warped or
there is fluid leak or rust buildup on the braking surface.
- Listen for a
high pitched chirping or squeal that goes away when the brakes are
applied. This is a wear indicator.
ENGINE NOISE
DRIVING -- During the road test, listen for engine noises. Sometimes
the noise will not be evident during idling. Cost of repair range
largely from $50 to $3,000.
- Listen for noise
on heavy acceleration as well as coasting. Any unusual noise from
the engine could mean "BIG PROBLEM".
- Look at the
gauges, the oil pressure gauge should read approximately 8 to 10
PSI at idle and between 20 to 80 PSI while driving.
UNDER HOOD -- Check
under the hood to see if there are any signs of wear or leaks.
Repair cost between $50 to $400.
- Check around the
engine and see if there are any oil leaks. Look for smoke which
could indicate oil leaking on the exhaust.
- Look around for
any coolant leak (green fluid). Check all the hoses, water pump
and the radiator.
- Look at the oil
dipstick - check the level and the color. It should be gold or
brownish but smooth and clean. Any other color may be a problem.
- NOTE: If the
engine has no dust or dirt on it, the engine has been steam
cleaned and concealed any oil leaks.
TIRES -- Check the
tires. They may need replacement. Tires run at $50 to $500 each.
- Check for wear
on the outside edges or in the center. If this is the case, the
vehicle has been driving at the incorrect tire pressure.
- Wear on the
inside or outside edges could mean that the vehicle has alignment
or suspension problems.
- Check rubber for
cracking or damage.
- Check tread
depth - take a straightened paperclip and insert it into the tread
at the wear bar. Mark the depth and measure with a ruler.
- The tread face
or surface should be almost flat with a slight curve. If there is
an uneven tread, then there may be a belt shift inside the tire.
OTHER FINAL CHECKS
-- You are now at the point of deciding on your final purchase. You
have invested some time inspecting the vehicle and gaining valuable
information on the condition of the car, it may now be a good idea
to have a safety check done by a qualified mechanic. Below are some
of the items that the mechanic will look at during the safety
inspection.
lights; horn;
wipers; washers; windshield; turn signals; emergency flashers; seat
belts, door latches; hood latch; trunk latch; body (holes); exhaust
system; rear brakes; parking brake; floor (holes); front suspension;
steering; front brakes; brake lines & hoses; 4-wheel alignment; fuel
tank; fuel lines; tires; wheels; windows; defroster (front & rear);
engine mounts; shocks/struts; frame (cracks); seat control; etc.
As you can see,
there are a lot of things the mechanic has to look at. Several of
the items have to be measured with special tool and compared to.
During your own inspection, you may have come across something you
were not sure of. Now is the time to ask the mechanic for his
opinion. You may also want the mechanic to do a scope check. This
tests the engine performance and efficiency as well as the
electrical system and emissions. A scope check may cost from $40 to
$80. Ask for a computer printout for your own record.
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LEGAL
RECOURSE - What
to do if you have a problem....
The buyer always
has the right to reject any car that is unsatisfactory at the time
of delivery. If you do take delivery and the car has problems,
contact the service manager for repairs immediately. If he is unable
or unwilling to settle the problem or if the car has to be repaired
several times for the same problem, contact the general manager or
the owner. If you still can't get satisfaction, contact the regional
and the national office of the manufacturer and file a complaint.
This information can be found in the owners manual. Other agencies
that can be helpful are the Better Business Bureau and the
Department of Motor Vehicles.
In all situations
when dealing with repair problems, keep an accurate written record
of each repair attempt or contact with the dealer. This will
substantiate any further actions that may be necessary. California,
as well as many other states, has many agencies and laws that can
help the consumer in disputes with the dealer, including lemon laws,
arbitration systems, and direct legal action in the courts.
In California, the
Better Business Bureau (BBB) operates Auto Line, which is the
largest arbitration system in the state. This system is designed to
settle disputes which have gone the normal course of repair, but
have reached an impasse.
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RECALL NOTICES
The National
Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) is a government
agency of the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT), responsible
for the enforcement of all safety related recall notices that
involve manufacturer defects affecting consumer vehicles. Notices
are issued from time to time to inform consumers of possible defects
and their associated risks. Consumers who own a vehicle covered by
any such notice should immediately take their vehicle to their
dealer for proper repair or replacement. Recall notices should NOT
be taken lightly. Consumers may file a complaint with the NHTSA's
Office of Defects Investigation by filling out NHTSA's
online form
here.
Manufacturers often
voluntarily issue recalls called "SERVICE BULLETINS" that
essentially serve the same purpose as an officially mandated NHTSA
recall. The Ford Motor Company's recall in April was one of the
largest recalls in history covering nearly nine million vehicles
equipped with a faulty ignition switch that may lead to possible
fire hazard. Chrysler Corporation's 1995 recall of more than 4
million minivans for a faulty rear tailgate latch that may open in a
collision, has failed to motivate the majority of owners to have
them replaced. As of August 1, 1996, only 19% of owners with the
faulty latches have responded to the Chrysler recall. Replacement
is free and Chrysler is conducting a second mailing followed by
telephone calls to encourage more owners to respond. Owners may
contact Chrysler Corporation at 1-800-853-1403.
If you are
interested in obtaining specific recall information for a particular
vehicle, you can do so by calling the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration Auto Safety Hotline at 1-800-424-9393 or
click here.
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NEW & USED CARS
WARRANTIES
Most new cars sold
have 2 warranties. One is called the "adjustment warranty" and is
provided by the dealership, which covers items like squeaks,
rattles, alignment problems and other minor annoyances, usually
lasting for 90 days. Then there is the manufacturers warranty which
protects all major components of the car for a minimum of 1
year/12,000 miles up to 5 years/60,000 miles.
Extended warranties
are offered by most dealerships and are added to the price of the
car. Simply stated that they are service contracts that generally
cover critical drive train components and internal engine problems.
These items are covered by the manufacturer under the factory
warranty for a period of time and extended coverage is usually not
necessary unless you put high mileage on the car or are very rough
on the engine and transmission. If you do decide to buy an extended
warranty, remember that all extended warranties are negotiable and
since they are often marked up over 100%, don't be afraid to ask for
a discount.
For example, an
average dealer cost on a 5 year/50,000 mile warranty is less that
$400.00 for a car priced under $12,000.00, and less than $750.00 on
a car priced over $25,000.00. And yet, some dealers often charge up
to $2,000.00 for these extended warranties. At a few hundred
dollars, an extended warranty may not be a bad idea. However, at a
few thousand, you are much better off putting that money aside to
cover any future repairs.
Read the extended
warranty contract carefully. You need to determine exactly when the
warranty starts and stops. For example: if you buy a 5- year
warranty and the car comes with a 3-year warranty, then the total
coverage should be for 8 years, NOT 5. Do not let a dealer "double
cover" your vehicle for the first few years. Find out if there is a
limit on the number of claims and if you have to pay a deductible
each time your car needs work.
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